November 18th off to Toronto and then overnight flight to Santiago
November 19th
Arrive at noon. Didn’t sleep much. We checked into Hotel Atton Vitacura. And then off to tour the city for 3 hours. Santiago is a city of 7 million. The city has the Mapacho river running through it although the water level was very low. Where ever there is flat spot or ledge there is someone who has made a temporary living spot. This city is dealing with lots of traffic, crime, and garbage. It has many long traffic tunnels. Graffiti is everywhere and many shantytown areas. On our tour we walk past the Palacio de La Moneda palace. It is all fenced off for security reasons. Last time we were here in 2004, we were able to walk into the palace grounds. Then over to Plaza de Armas. Many Jacaranda trees with purple flowers. Last stop is past the flew market and then the fish market.
We have dinner Mesón Nerudiano in the Bellavista area. We have been up for 30 hours and we don’t get back to hotel until late.
Sunday November 20th
As you know Chile is long and narrow. The Andes are to the east and the Coastal mountains to the west. Chile stretches over 4,300 km north to south, but only 350 km (217 mi) at its widest point east to west.
Today we are off to Casablanca valley which is northwest of Santiago. Couple of tunnels to go get to the other valleys. We are visiting 2 vineyards Vina Casas del Bosque and Vina Indomita Interesting tastings and fabulous lunch at Casas del Bosque. Incredible view at Indomita. Back at the hotel, Neil feels the hotel swaying (we are on the 20th floor) and yes, there was an earthquake north in the Mendoza Argentina area 6.5 Yikes. In the evening, we have a presentation by Wines of Chile and they give us a fabulous wine region map. Then over to Jane and Rob’s apartment so Gerry and Neil could have meeting with Jane. Rob made dinner and entertained me. Thierry Villard also arrived for dinner. What a character! We enjoyed hearing Thierry’s life stores. Very interesting. His wife Pauline showed up later.
Nov 21
Back out to Casablanca valley again but then a little to the north near Tapihue to the Villlard winery. Beautiful out and sunny. Had a tour with Thierry’s son, Jean Charles of the vineyard and facility and then a tasting. We continued to sip wine on a “soon to be” patio which is not quite complete. Atmosphere was great with a fabulous lunch and great wine. Thierry and Pauline were there as well.
Then it was off to the south of Santiago to Nadalie cooperage. Incredible demonstration of the whole process of a barrel. Would never of had this “up close” opportunity in Canada. OH and S issue for sure. We were right where the workers were pounding rings on and then firing the barrels. Absolutely incredible. Then we had a tasting with the same wine in 7 glasses but that had been aged in different oak from various forests in France. Unbelievable differences. Who would of known there was such a difference?
Back at hotel for meeting and then a supper right at hotel. Another great day!
Nov 22 Tuesday
Head south past Rancaqua narrowest spot between mountain ranges. Go past Curico (stayed there last time). Close to Curico is Molina which is the biggest winery in the world with 6000 hectares. ( Roughly 23 sections). Jose Manuel from O’Fournier wines, Argentina is on our bus. He came to us since we were unable to go to Mendoza this time since the airport was closed for renovations. Jose Manuel is quite the character with lots of stories and info. The winery we are going to is one that O’Fournier is associated with (rents or owns). The woman of the vineyard had called Jose explaining they had old vines and he was sceptical and then she said she was 70 and her grandmother had planted them! 120 year old cabernet franc vines!! We travelled past Talca to Maule valley to just west of Linares. The buses had a hard time getting to the yard. The setting for lunch was fantastic. We had a masterclass tasting in a separate building of O’Fournier wines and Maurico Lorca also of Mendoza. All wines were fantastic. Then we had lunch under the trees. OMG we just finished lunch and it is 5:37 pm. We tasted 15 wines with our masterclass tasting and lunch. Fabulous food , atmosphere, people , 120 year old cab franc vines ! Pretty special day. On the bus, Neil makes his special wine glass 🙂 Head north to Santa Cruz NW of Curico. Staying Santa Cruz for 2 nights. Small neat little town.
November 23rd Wednesday
Start the day with Neil missing his sunglasses on the bus but he hadn’t noticed yet! Bus driver comes on asking if these are someone’s glasses!!! Whew! Off for a tour of Viu Manent facilities and then have a tasting and a wonderful lunch. So excited that they have free Wifi. The little things that excite us! Then it was off to Echiverria. We have a tour of their facilities and then over to the garden outside the house for a tasting. This is all very familiar as we were here in 2004. The beautiful old house has been renovated since then. Tasting in garden outside house with Chilean music was an idyllic with great ambiance. Tasted several wine and then moved to the front of the house amongst the trees for an incredible supper. Ribs, sausage, beef, pork with lots of sides and salads. After supper we moved to have drinks on terrace and dancing. Late night back to hotel at midnight. Another incredible day!
November 24 Thursday
Start the day at Vina la Rosa. We have a Masterclass in terroir and then tasting. They showed video of the last time we were here including of picture of the group which showed our much younger selves as well as a young Scott and Ellen’s Mom. Learning about the terroir in the different vineyards was interesting as well as how it significantly changed the taste and nose of the wine. We take buses up to Cornelana vineyards and do a “tailgate” tasting in the field. Very hot. Back down to Vina la Rosa for lunch. Yet another idyllic setting with beautiful food and flowing wines from Cornalana from the offering that will be in January 2017. Then we were off to Palmeretti to see 1000 yr old Chilean palm trees in a rare privately owned national park funded be la Rosa. The trees have little coconuts. We also drove by Llamas and an organic vineyard. Drove to Santiago to the Hotel Atton El Bosque. It is south of the previous hotel and in a trendy area close to restaurants and shopping. Went out for a light supper. on our own and had beer which was a nice change from wine!
November 25th Friday
We leave Santa Cruz and head north and close to Santiago in the Maipo valley. We stop at Antiyal winery. Alvaro and wife Marina run a biodynamic vineyard. A modern shaped small building in the center of a farm. Very interesting. Almond trees. They compost with camomile, yarrow, stinging nettle, dandelion and Valairin. Can’t remember the reason ____________. They do everything associated with the vineyard based on the calendar of the moon with ascending and descending. And the autumn and spring solstice. Manure is stuffed in horns and planted around the vineyards. Organic farm is closed and nothing comes from the outside. We have a tasting on the roof top. Taste 3 wines are all are fantastic and elegant. Unbelievably beautiful wines but expensive. We hope Opimian starts to carry these wines. Off to La Calma de Rita for lunch. We start with Pisco Sours of course. Great food and fun atmosphere with the group. After lunch we head closer to Santiago and stop at El principal. It is a beautiful setting. Not an Opimian supplier but a commercial winery. Went out into the vineyard and climbed a hill. Ended with a tasting. Wines were good but expensive. Head back to Santiago. Traffic is crazy. Interesting fact – We heard that Argentineans fly to Santiago to buy electronics because it is much cheaper. We have the farewell dinner at Como Agua para Chocolate. Had the Congria eel in a spinach sauce. Trendy restaurant area on Constitution street. Beer at Irish pub across the street to finish the night.
Nov 26th Saturday
Not a super early morning which was a nice break. Today we leave the main big group and end up with 12 of us who fly to Buenos Aries. We take vans to airport and check out the Air Canada lounge. So nice to have access to a quiet area of the airport. Speculator view of Andes as we fly over travelling east. Always beautiful. A van picks us up and takes us to the Hotel Pullizer in the downtown. We have some free time and then meet at 7 to go out to culinary experience at the “Argentina Experience” Fun night. Make empanadas, drink wine and learn local gestures.
November 27th
Meet at 9 to go on city tour. Run into Claude and Danielle at the church that the current pope had been at. Then the Caminito area, the San Telmo market and then tour of the Colon Opera House. This was incredible. We kind of didn’t feel like seeing anything else but this tour was totally worth it. Our volunteer guide was an architect who worked on the restoration work. He gave us so much extra and interesting facts. What a beautiful building. The sound in the theatre is amazing. We ate lunch at Piegari. After lunch we walk around the Recoleta cemetery. This cemetery is like a mini city inside a city with many mausoleums, some immaculate and some very run down. It is costly for families to maintain. Eva Peron mausoleum is here. Back to the hotel and out for supper at El Viejo Almacen and the Tango show. Very entertaining.
Nov 28th Monday
Split from group today They travel home to Canada. We go shopping but don’t buy anything. Hard to believe! Prices are crazy and there is nothing unique. There is lots of garbage and homeless families. People sleeping on the street. We are so fortunate. Back to the hotel to get our bags and then take a cab to Aunt Irene’s. We go past a huge shanty town. Cab driver gets a little lost so it costs us a bit more. Irene has a nice condo. It is on the same street that her house was on (18 blocks) that we were at in 2004. Olivos is an upscale neighbourhood that is close to the President’s place. Irene has bought food and Neil prepares supper. Sharlene, my first cousin, even though we are 29 years apart is also visiting her Mom. Irene and Liz text each other in Swahili. Too cool. They determine that they were not in east Africa at the same time but both were glad to practice their Swahili.
Nov 29th Tuesday
Up early so Irene can drive us to the domestic airport. We fly to Iguazu Falls. I have to mention my pet peeve again – why do they have to fold over the seat belt on the seat on the airplane? Your hands are full and you have to set everything down in order to move the seat to finally sit in your seat!!! Drives me nuts!!! We are staying at the Sheraton. Very nice hotel with pool and spectacular view of the falls but we need some down time. We could walk to falls but decide to lay by pool and then have cocktails at the lounge. We were going to walk to get tickets for boat ride tomorrow but lay down and end up sleeping to a couple of hours. We needed that. By the hotel is a non edible fig tree. Very weird looking. Also, the hotel has a notice about locking the patio doors to keep out the monkeys because they steal from the mini bar. Really? To the lounge for a light supper and wine. Ambiance is relaxing and the view is incredible. It is so unexplainable. Sunset and then the stars are spectacular.
Nov 30th Wednesday
Start the day early to beat the heat with the upper trail hike. Spectacular. No words can describe so I will let the pictures do the talking although even they do not do this breath taking area justice.
We come back to hotel for a morning snack before heading out on the lower trail of Iguazu falls. This is where we decide to take the boat ride underneath the falls. Exhilarating! We read after that in 2011 a boat went down when it went too far into the falls. Glad I didn’t read that before our adventure!. We were soaked to the skin. Walk back to the hotel to change. The Sheraton is so close to the falls that you can easily pop back to the hotel in between trails.
Head back to the hotel to change and have lunch. Then head to the Devils throat (Garganta del Diablo). You are required to take a small open air train to the hike area of Devil’s throat. It is then about a 20 minute walk to the top of the falls. Spectacular! Could take the train back but decide to take a boat back. The meanders along the side but you can tell there is quite a pull. You can hear the falls nearby. Very quiet otherwise with the odd jungle sound. Finish the day with another light lounge meal.
Dec 1st Thursday
Get up early and do the upper falls hike, one last time before we head to the pool and relax. Check out and fly back to Buenos Aries. Irene picks us up and there is crazy traffic again. Even though the airport is close it take 1.5 hours. Traffic was at a stand still. We have a quiet evening visiting.
Dec 2nd Friday
Head out walking to go shopping for ingredients for supper in Irene’s neighbourhood. We go out for lunch and then to Uncle Gerry’s grave at the cemetery. Start cooking late afternoon. Maribe and her boys (Nicholas and Santiago), Sharlene and Mathis join us. We have pistachio crusted fish, calamari, lemon asparagus risotto and gelato for dessert. Fun time trying to figure out Spanish and to let the boys practice their English. Lots of hand waving.
Irene’s balcony
Dec 3rd Saturday
Start the day with a walk to the harbour in the Olivos neighbourhood. Have breakfast outside at a bakery. Back to Irene’s to pack up and head to airport. Good thing we left when we did because the traffic was terrible for a Saturday. It was over 2 hours. We felt bad for Irene having to drive back in that traffic. The flight goes to Santiago and then Toronto. Then the flight to Regina. It has been an action packed 2.5 weeks. A wonderful trip with some very incredible opportunities.
Wine and Cheezies Travels 